- Tanu of LPT has contributed to the exclusive perfume magazine "PARFUM" a series of articles on iconic classic perfumes, entitled "The Unforgetable Scent" since June 2015. The following English translation is "Two Imaginary Ladies and me", the second article for PARFUM magazine no.175 issued in September 2015, translated by Tanu -
The Unforgettable Scent vol.2
Two Imaginary Ladies and me
His Obsession creates an imaginary lady
To create a best selling perfume, it is most important to market research for both personal taste, and to determine sales targets. It is also essential for the creators or owners of the Perfume House, to advise their Perfumers, of their wish to make the new perfume, "Unforgettable".
However, should his passion for this new perfume become too intense, reaching to an obsession, this vivid image, could cease to be a concept, but become a creation of an imaginary woman, with a heart, soul, and body, who's warmth, sensuality, and allurement dominate his mind...
Today, may I introduce, "Two Imaginary Ladies" which two different owners of perfume houses, have produced.
Ysatis EDT 50ml
"The Ideal woman of Hubert Givenchy - her name is Ysatis, obviously"
The lady most associated with Hubert Givenchy in his career, is almost without exception, Audrey Hepburn. However, she could hardly have been his imaginary woman, as she already existed..So who was this imaginary lady of Monsieur Givenchy?
In 1984, Givenchy launched his "ideal woman" Ysatis, amid a advertising campaign, titled, with the heading of this article. "Ysatis" was discontinued, but had a limited relaunch in Japan this summer, and was created by Dominique Ropion, the Master Perfumer, who also designed Amarige in 1991, together with a series of Frederic Malle creations like, Une Fleur de Cassie (2000) Carnal Flower (2005) and Portrait of a Lady (2010). The Skyscraper shaped, crystal bottle, is designed by the living legend Pierre Dinand (who's first bottle was designed for Madame Rochas in 1960).
Ysatis, is a sultry, floral chypre. The key of this scent is Tubereuse, which is rather subtle, understated, and not In your face. The other heart notes are, lush Blossoms like, Rose,Jasmin, Orange Blossom, and Ylang Ylang, all embraced by base notes like, Oak Moss, and Sandalwood, together with a hint of, Civet, Warm Amber, and Musk. All holding such a beautiful bouquet in their willow arms. So noble, So intelligent, and yet, so mysterious and sensual.
An imaginary Lady then, tall, supple and alluring, who would smile with her back, but would never turn to you, no matter how long you yearned! She will always be, your ideal woman, out of reach forever....
Ysatis, has never dated, or become old-fashioned, since launched over 30 years ago, thanks to her sleek image, without need of the big shoulder pads, and big hair styles of the Dynasty fashion, during the 80s.
We wonder, if Monsieur Givenchy, now in his 88th year, still daydreams about Ysatis?..If he does, I would not be suprised...
Jan Ewoud Vos, the founder of Puredistance, cool...
I have such fond memories of her, though I have never met her. She must be Opardu
PUREDISTANCE, A small perfume house, based in Groningen, owned by Jan Ewoud Vos, who spent 10 years in Film and Photography, has offered only Pure Perfume Extrait since 2007.
They don't follow trends, but focus on creating only timeless and beautiful Perfumes and Packaging. Their standard bottles look like a (17.5 ml) test tube, and for some reason, remind me of a type of (60ml 100ml) medicinal tonic bottle, they look quite uncompromising!
You will find many pictures of Mr Vos, on the official website, together with their purfumes, so if you require a likeness, you will find it there.
OPARDU, (2012) was developed by Annie Buzantian, the famous Master Perfumer from New York, and was the "Nose" behind Pleasures (1995) and other Puredistance like PUREDISTANCE I (2007) and ANTONIA (2010). They are based on Mr Vos's fond memory of an imaginary women, obviously never met in person. He has her name, OPARDU, also her time and place - circa 1920, in Paris "Opardu" she must be! Definately, Purple Lilac, in full bloom, is the centre of Opardu, with powdery Heliotrope, violet, creamy Gardenia, with lavish Tubereuse,all blend together, to form thick and fluffy clouds of mauve, with a bounty of 32% perfume concentration.
If you are a Vintage Perfume Lover, Opardu will assuredly satisfy you, with it's great, classic, atmospheric, reminder, of the golden era of perfume.
You may even feel that your never-ending quest of vintage bottles, has at last reached it's end. It is truly, a materpiece of nostalgic, floating floral fragrance.
Opardu with 17.5ml atmizer & 100ml bottle
Enjoy these two perfumes just in season, and meet those imaginary ladies, who await you !
Tanu / The owner of La Parfumerie Tanu, The Essential Guide to Classic and Modern Classic Perfumes
special thanks to : David Whitnell (English proofreading)
(Japanese / for subscription of PARFUM magazine)